Are you ready to discover a little-known place, but rich and pulsating with history, tradition and life in Fano? Today we take you to discover the most authentic part of the port area of the city, more precisely El Gugul: the symbolic place of the Fano fishermen!
The port of Fano: a tradition with deep roots
The history of the port has its roots already in Roman times and has always been the heart and beating center of the seafaring Fano, the destiny and history of this area have been marked over time by the sea and its port - channel. The purtolota area (of the port) has always been autonomous and independent from the rest of the city ever since, in the late eighteenth century, when the fishermen moved from the center to live on the two banks of the port, where an extra muros district was born which had original traditions and a typical dialect also characterized by external influences, due to frequenting other Adriatic ports. The community of Fano fishermen, called the purtulòt, lived respectively in the two rows of houses on the sides of the canal port, one called soravent (upwind) and the other sotto'vent (downwind), not immune to quarrels and competitions between them. It was a proud community, but also isolated and quarrelsome, profoundly changed over time both in terms of habits, customs and ways of working.
The fishing job in Fano
Fishing has always been the driving force behind this area of the city and was once mainly artisanal and family-run. The whole family, usually very large, was seafaring and engaged in this activity in various capacities:
- the men set sail for the sea;
- the women dedicated themselves to sewing the nets and the sails;
- the old men, on the other hand, transported the catch that had to be sold.
Usually the sailors stayed at sea for 14 – 15 days, eating what they caught which was roasted, boiled or in soup, hence the origin of the typical recipe of the Fanese gastronomic tradition.
Every sailor was known by his nickname, it was in fact almost impossible to trace someone with his real name, the most common ones were: Arturo del Blin, Gibìn, Furtuna, Fagiòl, Ruscìn…
The fishing activity was mainly concentrated in the winter season, while in the summer the boats transported the gravel from Fano to Ravenna, Porto Garibaldi and Cesenatico.
During their free time, when they weren't at sea, the men stayed at the inn playing cards, the little ones, on the other hand, enlivened the street with their games and the women, grappling with housework, found themselves talking sitting on the doorway.
Today things have changed, the fishing boats that practice foravia fishing (offshore) remain at sea for only 4 days, while the steering boats leave in the early hours of the morning and return in the evening.
El gugul: the story that survives
In the distant memory linked to fishing and the port, the memory of El Gugul (or cogollo) has remained alive, a trap-net that gives its name to the small area of the port that we will now discover together.
The cogollo (gugullo) was, therefore, a funnel-shaped net that ended in a dead-end pocket, which barred the shallow waters near the shore, forcing the fish to enter a series of successive net chambers.
In the months of November - December they were used for fishing for eels, which were deposited alive in the burchi, a kind of boat with pierced sides immersed in the waters, waiting to be sold at Christmas. This type of net could be found on the Lido, but also in front of the mouths of the Arzilla and the Metauro.
The El Gugul area is located in Via Vincenzo Franceschini, in a more hidden street than the promenade and the vitality of the Lido and takes this name from its shape which, like the net, is funnel-shaped. Today, the small fishermen's houses have been restored and the street is characterized by an explosion of lively colors and decorations with images and objects related to the history and maritime tradition that cover the facades of the houses. Walking along this street you can also come across particular names: they are the names of the old boats.
But what you breathe in this place is the feeling of conviviality and community that characterized it. In fact, some residents tell us that it was very usual for families to have long tables where they ate rustita (a typical dish of Fano gastronomy that is prepared with roasted cooked fish breaded in breadcrumbs) made with the daily catch, in a jovial and cheerful atmosphere. The memory continues with many stories of "joyful disputes" between the various fishermen always characterized by an amused spirit. Among these we want to tell you about one: that of the ace of sticks.
“ The fisherman Andreano had the sail of his fishing boat decorated with an ace of sticks, a symbol of virility, masculinity and strength, in response to this “snub” Mario who certainly did not feel outdone, had no less than three stitches sewn into his sail axes of sticks, in a gusts of wind contest for who was the strongest. To reiterate this concept even more, the ace or three aces of sticks were also painted in the entrances of the houses of the two fishermen. Because whether at sea or on land it was important to remember who was the strongest!”
The sense of community and mutual help were the sensations that reigned in ElGugul, an area where everyone knew each other, even if things have changed today, the local residents keep this perception alive by giving us an authentic, unique and colorful street in Fano.
Did you know that the influence of the Gugul is so strong that there is even a saying in Fano? “So’ fnit in un gugul” to indicate that you have ended up in a difficult way out.
If you want to get to know a unique part of Fano, we really recommend visiting El Gugul, during your walks along the seafront and not before having tasted a delicious Moretta, which among other things is the fishermen's drink!
Information:
Useful Information:
Itinerario “mare e porto” di Fano
Bibliography and Sitography
Gabrile Ghiandoli, “Fano d’Antan”: una città tra il poetico e il becero
